GM's MLTL with 416-8B

**westend9** · April 2nd, 2011, 02:49 PM

Originally Posted by GM

Yeah, there's a few of us around, though probably the world's majority reside in Japan. Like many of my generation, I was raised to be a recycler up to a point, but when I became aware of what they were doing at the J.A. Pan, Co. back in '66, it really 'lit a fire under me' on the subject.

Only 15%?! That's really low compared to my locale, though in the past decade it's gotten better. Until legislation makes it a huge finable offense that gets tacked on to property taxes if they fail to recycle, the average American isn't going to bother. Heck, around here if you want the city or county trash collectors to pick-up recyclables you have to pay via property tax assessment for the privilege even though they get paid by the reclaimers!

I really wonder why I bother though. I mean just one illegal alien or otherwise 'indifferent' family around me dumps more recyclable paper, cardboard, glass, plastic at the curb for trash pick-up in a week than I reclaim in a couple of months and there's many thousands of them in a ~5 mi. radius.

Looks nice, but I swoon at the thought of spending so much time on woodworking I can't see. Different strokes............

A Mickey D's with a Redwood fence?! Don't recall ever seeing such a luxury at any 'fast food' emporium around here. The only Redwood I've scored is [7] 1x8x96" rough sawn planks that's been collecting dust in the shop for right at 34 yrs now. Now that I know I'm probably stuck where I am till I'm good as gone, guess I ought to use it up on that fireplace I'd considered way back when now that firewood, as expensive as it is now, is cheaper than electrical or natural gas heat around here.

GM

You're absolutely right on all of this, GM, it seems like a drop in the bucket (the recycling efforts) when you look at what others pitch to be land filled and the leaders of our communities, for the most part, make some of it ridiculously difficult. I look at recycling as both a personal mandate due to my past activities and as an economical alternative. Who knows, maybe some of it wears off on others and that couldn't be a bad thing.

The detail in the cabinet construction also falls under the "personal mandate" thing, as well, I guess. If nothing else, it helps hone my woodworking skills.

The McDonalds fence was certainly a windfall, it's nearly impossible to find clear Redwood at any lumber yard around here. If it can be found, the price is very high. There was nothing wrong with the fence other than the paint was peeling from it and I'm guessing the bid from a painting contractor to repaint it determined the outcome. If you have some good plank, consider it an heirloom, lol.

Originally Posted by GM

Interesting, wasn't aware of a glue with such properties. Will come in handy for a couple of furniture repairs I need to do.

Thanks!

GM

Yes, my BIL swears by this adhesive and for the little time I've used it, it seems to have excellent adhesion and strength. An inadvertent placement of a clamping spacer and glue squeeze-out combined to make for quite a bit of tugging to release the clamping block. I would say it is quite similar to Titebond III but has more solids in the mix. When I filled my quart glue bottle from his gallon container, we had to mix the settled solids from the bottom of the gallon container.

I was out and about, this morning, looking for sheet fiberglass but couldn't come up with any. A learned employee at one of the lumber super-stores told me that Owens Corning will only distribute it through their distributor network and won't sell any to the generic super-stores. I picked up a roll of R-13 and thinking that it was what was in the original Model 19's and might be a good substitute. If it doesn't meet the requirements, I'll pull it out and put in something else in the future. I'm planning on placing the insulation behind the woofer on the back panel, 1/3 down from the top, across the top panel, and on the side panels, down the same 1/3. This is the current plan unless I hear different from you. I might peel a little fiberglass off so that the dimension is reduced from the 3 1/2" standard to about 2" or so. That is YTBD. Let me know what you think on this because I have no idea about densities and such.
Thanks, again, for your time and knowledge.

Edit: Thinking of how I could incorporate a bit of our shared recycling interest in this, I present: The hatch guide rails, made from the aforementioned McDonalds fence.

**westend9** · April 3rd, 2011, 02:35 PM

Some more progress was made, last night. I stapled the R-13 fiberglass into the cabinet, installed foam srtips on the driver cradle, attached the front panel, and felted the bottom hatch cover.
There was a little problem with fitment between the front panel and the rest of the carcass. I had installed a T-nut in the channel for the center brace and a dry-fit showed some interference. The Dozuki made the necesary small cut in the center brace for clearance. Another dry-fit and this time the front panel passed the paper-won't-slide-under-starightedge test. It is sure a good feeling when the last panel falls in place with a resounding thump!

Earlier, I had promised pictues of a large number of clamps being used and here it is:

I will attach the 416 in a little bit to make sure everything fits up well and then remove it for the finishing process. Before finishing, I'll launch into assembling the second cab.

GM, do you think the R-13 is going to make the grade or should I immediately remove it in favor of the 703 style? I'm pretty sure I can get that style of sheet fiberglass but not on the weekend. The R-13 wouldn't go to waste since I use it for other construction jobs.

**westend9** · April 3rd, 2011, 04:25 PM

The first cab is now playing!

I'm just pushing it full range with the shop receiver but might whack together a simple crossover to put it in it's correct BW.

My initial impressions: Superb, getting the woofer up into a better listening position makes it more dynamic. I'll have to reserve more technical comments until I have it operating in a better environment and hooked to better gear but I can already tell that the bass is very good, less west coast boom and a more gradual rolloff.

To GM: :thankU::thankU::thankU:

GM · April 3rd, 2011, 04:39 PM

Don't recall ever using R13 for anything, historically it was mostly R19 and a little R25 and R36 for in-wall and attic respectively IIRC. FWIW, my old cabs have R19 minus the paper backing since I was between the loss of Celotex and hadn't found a friendly 'tin knocker' (htg/AC duct fabricator) that would give me small scraps and sell me new sheet stock.

Anyway, I imagine R13 isn't too dense, especially if you can still hear any cab 'boom' using the click test or other tester that will do an impulse response: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5019/...022c3b_b_d.jpg

GM

**bfish** · April 3rd, 2011, 05:19 PM

Originally Posted by GM

Anyway, I imagine R13 isn't too dense, especially if you can still hear any cab 'boom' using the click test or other tester that will do an impulse response: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5019/...022c3b_b_d.jpg

GM

+1 on the "click" test, impulse response waterfalls are pretty, but when a click sounds like a click, you're there.

**westend9** · April 3rd, 2011, 06:00 PM

Thanks guys, will definitely build a clicker and see what I have. I will continue to experiment with different stuffing materials, also. I have some polyfill and other materials on hand.

**westend9** · April 3rd, 2011, 10:59 PM

Well, having never done this, I have little to compare it to but I definitely hear a click, no boom. If anything the click is a little dullish. It is not, for instance, like the strike of a drummers stick against a woodblock. There is no boom.

GM · April 3rd, 2011, 11:27 PM

Originally Posted by westend9

Well, having never done this, I have little to compare it to but I definitely hear a click, no boom. If anything the click is a little dullish. It is not, for instance, like the strike of a drummers stick against a woodblock. There is no boom.

How does the switch sound all by itself when flicked? When the cab is critically damped it should sound the same except amplified. When the switch has a sharp ''snap', 'dullish' implies over-damped, which usually means either too much insulation and/or the cab is tuned too low (doubtful) and/or there's an air leak.

GM